City Focus Frankfurt

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We spend a few days in Frankfurt and fi nd out there’s so much more to this skycraper city.

Citylens Frankfurt
SO “Bankfurt” or “Mainhattan” is a boring banking hub laden with skyscrapers and not much else? Think again, as one of Germany’s most cosmopolitan cities (officially called Frankfurt am Main) overflows with some of the wildest nightlife in the country – its rooftops make dramatic venues for beach-style parties, while appreciative crowds pulse to the latest electro sounds in the clubs. Then there is the longest stretch of museums in Europe (a whole mile of them), as well as a rambling old town and a restaurant scene that boasts everything from Michelin-starred temples through to cheap and cheerful cider taverns. This image just about captures the city’s flavour perfectly – a mix of old and new, modern day and the past, where anything goes.

Citydays Frankfurt
From modern sights to ancient ones, this city is full of surprises

IN a city of skyscrapers there is only one place to start, the MAIN TOWER and its impressive viewing platform. Scoot 200m above it all and take in a panorama that includes the Römerberg historic quarter and the entertainment district of Sachsenhausen across the city’s lifeblood river Main. From this lofty height you can also gawk at two even taller buildings, the 256m Messeturm and the 258m Commerzbank Tower. The latter is Europe’s secondtallest office building. The Main Tower also has an exclusive restaurant for lunch or dinner with a stunning view.

Back at ground level, head for ROMERBERG SQUARE. Virtually blasted off the face of the planet by Allied bombing at the end of World War II, the area has been impressively restored. To the untrained eye, the grand buildings here really could date from the 14th and 15th centuries, and it’s a great place to relax in a café or restaurant.

If you’re peckish head to ZUM STANDESAMTCHEN, one of the best of the touristy bars/restaurants. Eat what seems like an entire pig and quaff lovely beer on the terrace as you watch the action on the cobbled square. It has some great Scottish single malts, too.

Time now to head down to the river that first propelled the growth of the city. Numerous bridges crisscross the Main, so choose one and watch the skyscrapers start to loom above you as you cross. From the southern bank you can appreciate sweeping views of a skyline that is more American or Asian than European. There are walkways by the river for idle strolling, but beware the insane cyclists who believe that both the cycle routes and the pedestrian paths are theirs as they bash through at bonecrunching speeds.

The southern bank of the Main is also home to the famous MUSEUM MILE. Yes there really is a whole mile of museums in what has to be the highest concentration of the buildings anywhere in the world. Highlights include the interactive COMMUNICATION MUSEUM, perfect for younger visitors, and the CITY ART INSTITUTE, whose treasures include paintings by Cezanne, Rembrandt and Renoir. Also worth checking out is the MUSEUM OF ANCIENT SCULPTURE, which features everything from Egyptian through to Renaissance sculpture, calling at several other important periods along the way.

Despite its high-rise façade, Frankfurt also boasts a number of tempting green spaces. Check out the PALMENGARTEN, a cute retreat boasting a formal garden, rose garden, boating pond and neat little narrow-gauge train. Another escape from the city is offered by one of Germany’s most famous zoos. FRANKFURT ZOO is home to lions, rhinos, crocodiles and apes among other creatures, and somehow bizarrely creates its own “tropical storms” twice a day.

Citynights Frankfurt
Trendy bars, fab DJs and rooftop “beach” hangouts

ALL thoughts of Frankfurt being boring are blown out of the water as soon as you hit streets overflowing with everything from old-school taverns and Irish pubs, right through to trendy, buzzing bars and pumping techno clubs.

A good place to start is on the Römerberg. SCHWARZER STERN may be touristy, but it is a proper restaurant where you can start with a pasta dish before moving on to the likes of veal fillet or pork loin. Römerberg is great for people-watching, but the action can be a bit tame so seek out trendy new bars like MOLOKO nearby, with its funky tunes, mood lighting and good-looking staff.

The choice now is between heading to Sachsenhausen – which does tend to attract the lowest common denominator into its Irish pubs and dodgy bars – or the more classier Fressgass area on the north bank. The latter is a great place to eat, drink and people-watch. ORO is one of the hippest bars, and has heaters outside to keep you warm on those cooler autumn nights.

Frankfurt boasts some pretty classy restaurants, so if you want to fine dine head for TIGERPALAST, a very “Frankfurt” eatery, where you can enjoy cabaret/cultural performances as you eat. One funky new phenomenon has been the emergence of rooftop “beach bars”, with beaches and pools. Pick of the bunch is CITY BEACH, a sexy rooftop hideaway where you can pretend you are in Ibiza in summer.

The Ibiza comparisons are not as far off as you might imagine, as this is a city that loves its dance music. International superstar DJs flock to the literally underground U60311 (housed in a disused underground station), while newcomer KING KAMEHAMEHA SUITE is an impressive club experience. More earthy nightlife is on offer down in Sachsenhausen at DREIKONIGSKELLER, a cosy basement venue that stages live blues, rock and indie bands. And STEREOBAR cuts a happy medium with cool club action on its bijou dancefloor, as well as a lively bar scene.

The Frankfurt gig
Takács Quartet
If classical music is your thing then you’ll not want to miss out when the famous Takács Quartet hits the Alte Oper concert hall in Frankfurt on 23 October. Yet anyone can enjoy this outfit that is regarded as one of the world’s finest string quartets, as well as a venue that is one of the country’s best.

OPERNPLATZ. TEL: +49 (0)69 134 0400, WWW.ALTEOPER.DE

Frankfurt
On the cheap
The Frankfurt Card is the place to start for budget-conscious visitors. Pay €8.70 for one day or €12.50 for two days and you’ll enjoy free public transport, discounts on river cruises, half-price entry to 20 Frankfurt museums, a free map and discounts at various pubs and restaurants. You can also enjoy tasty local food on a budget by getting a picnic together at Meyer (55 Gr. Bockenheimer Strasse), and heading for one of the city’s green spaces or relaxing riverside spots.

Citystay Frankfurt
Check out our guide to budget, luxury and medium-priced places to stay

On a budget
Art-Room-F
If you are feeling in touch with your artistic sensibilities but your talents have yet to be rewarded financially, the Art-Room-F is for you. This small guesthouse is full of character and run by artists with a definite preference for artistically minded guests. The room rates are a steal, so content yourself with the knowledge that the businessman muscling past you at a Frankfurt bar probably shelled out an extra zero on his room. There are only two chic rooms here so booking ahead is essential. The owners specialise in clay works, so even a passing mention of your lifelong deep love of clay may help secure the best one.

DOUBLES FROM €50. TEL: +49 (0)69 343 545, WWW.ARTROOM-F.DE

Cream of the crop
Villa Kennedy
A lavish 163-bedroom oasis on the south bank of the river Main, Villa Kennedy offers arguably the city’s finest accommodation. Opened in 2006, the hotel is a favourite of visiting high-rollers and celebrities, and is built across three mansions set around a central courtyard. Standards are pretty high at this Rocco Forte-managed address, with smooth fabrics, muted colours and neat design touches aplenty.

And for that extra bit of luxury, the Suite Experience gives you perks like a complimentary unpacking service, a free mobile phone for local calls and in-room check-in. The spa is the best in the city, spread across four floors and boasting a range of treatments in its eight rooms. Try the excellent traditional Thai massage or splash down in the 15m indoor pool.

DOUBLES FROM €240, INCLUDING BREAKFAST. TEL: +49 (0)69 717 120,

Not breaking the bank
The Pure
If minimalism is your thing then you will love The Pure. Just around the corner from the main station and the Ryanair airport shuttle stop, this trendy haunt is bedecked in a rich palate of white, white and white. As well as being in the famous Design Hotels tome it is also perhaps the whitest hotel in Europe and indeed the whitest hotel I have ever stayed at in over a decade as a travel writer.

Fortunately, the staff are warm enough to add a bit of colour to The Pure, and a neat little touch in the – you guessed it – very white bedrooms is the welcome pack with cotton buds, earplugs, night moisturiser and a condom. Other bonuses include all rooms having flatscreen TVs and complimentary wireless internet access. And there is nothing too minimalist about the breakfast buffet, either. The lobby bar also stocks an impressive range of single malt whiskies, and there is a modest gym on site for more active types.

DOUBLES FROM €140, INCLUDING BREAKFAST. TEL: +49 (0)69 710 4570, WWW.THE-PURE.DE

Citylocator Frankfurt

01 VILLA KENNEDY
70 Kennedyallee
Tel: +49 (0)69 717 120
www.roccofortecollection.com

02 THE PURE
86 Niddastrasse
Tel: +49 (0)69 710 4570
www.the-pure.de

03 ART-ROOM-F
16 Werftstrasse
Tel: +49 (0)69 343 545
www.artroom-f.de

04 MAIN TOWER
52–58 Neue Mainzer Strasse
Tel: +49(0)69 3650 4740
www.maintower.helaba.de

05 COMMUNICATION MUSEUM
53 Schaumainkai
Tel: +49(0)696 0600
www.museumsstiftung.de

06 CITY ART INSTITUTE
63 Schaumainkai
Tel: +49 (0)69 605 098 200
www.staedelmuseum.de

07 MUSEUM OF ANCIENT SCULPTURE
71 Schaumainkai
Tel: +49 (0)69 650 0490
www.liebieghaus.de

08 PALMENGARTEN
61 Siesmayerstrasse
Tel: +49(0)69 2123 6689
www.palmengarten-frankfurt.de

09 FRANKFURT ZOO
16 Alfred-Brehm-Platz
Tel: +49(0)69 2123 3735
www.zoo-frankfurt.de

10 ZUM STANDESAMTCHEN
16 Am Römerberg
Tel: +49(0)69 282 999
www.zum-standesaemtchen.de

11 SCHWARZER STERN
6 Römerberg
Tel: +49(0)69 291 979
www.schwarzerstern.de

12 TIGERPALAST
16–20 Heiligkreuzgasse
Tel: +49 (0)69 920 0220
www.tigerpalast.com

13 MOLOKO
1 Kurt-Schumacher Strasse
Tel: +49 (0)69 1388 6932

14 ORO
53 Hochstrasse
Tel: +49 (0)69 2199 4993

15 CITY BEACH
Auf dem Parkhaus Peek& Cloppenburg / Konstabler
Tel: +49 (0)176 1244 4850
www.citybeach.de/frankfurt

16 U60311
Rossmarkt
Tel: +49 (0)692 9706 0311
www.u60311.net

17 KING KAMEHAMEHA SUITE
192 Hanauer Landstrasse
Tel: +49 (0)69 480 0370
www.king-kamehameha.de

18 DREIKONIGSKELLER
71 Färberstrasse
Tel: +49 (0)69 6612 9804
www.dreikoenigskeller.com

19 STEREOBAR
7 Abtsgässchen
Tel: +49 (0)69 617 116
www.stereobar.de

Citylives Frankfurt
JENS-PETER MEYER NOVELIST AND TOUR GUIDE
Take the time to discover Frankfurt’s hidden side, and its modern outlook

“FRANKFURT is a city of vagabonds and I myself am a vagabond, so I guess that is why I like living here. I have lived in Munich, Moscow and the Caribbean, but I keep coming back to a city that never fails to fascinate me.

“I first came to Frankfurt when I was only two and have never really left my ‘base camp’. Something like 80% of the population is transient, just passing through working or studying, and that gives Frankfurt an atmosphere unlike any other city in Germany.

“The positive side of this comes across in the tolerance we have for people of all religions, cultures and races. We have mosques, churches and synagogues all co-existing. We don’t have the same racial issues here that some parts of Germany have.

“One of the downsides of transient Frankfurt is that there is a great disparity between those who have a lot of money and those who don’t, which you will notice most visibly in the area around the main railway station. But we are a ‘real city’ and don’t just hide our problems away.

“These days I work part-time as a tour guide, which lets me get across my love of the city. I have met some fascinating people, including US bomber pilots who helped devastate Frankfurt during World War II. I am also a novelist, and my first novel comes out this year. It was financed by one of my banker friends – only in Frankfurt could artists be funded so directly by financiers!

“If it is your first time here I recommend exploring the old town, the riverside and our mile of museums – but also looking for some more hidden corners. This is the only city I know where you will find a monastery with half a dozen monks just off one of the main shopping streets.

“Many people come here on business and don’t get to see much of the city, which I think is a great shame. Try to stay for an extra day and see why it is a place I find so captivating, and one in which I have chosen to bring up my young son.”

FOR TOURS WITH JENS, VISIT WWW.FRANKFURT-TOURISMUS.DE

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