City Focus Tenerife

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City Focus editor Robin McKelvie hops over to Tenerife and its capital Santa Cruz for some winter sun

City Lens
Mention the Canary island of Tenerife to many people and the images immediately conjured up are of package holidays, mass tourism and resort nightlife. Nothing could be further from the truth. The balmy island is one of Spain’s most beautiful outposts and its capital, Santa Cruz – tucked spectacularly between the rugged Anaga mountains and the Atlantic – is one of the most underrated towns in the world. This bijou gem boasts a sprinkling of tourist attractions, one of Europe’s most impressive performance venues, a swathe of restaurants and bars, and easy access to some fab hotels and resorts – not to mention the incredible sun-kissed beach that is Playa de las Americas. If you fancy some sun and relaxation all year round, Tenerife is the place to be.

City Days
Santa Cruz de Tenerife may only have enjoyed the status of capital since 1723, but it has made up for lost time with plenty of intriguing architecture. The most dramatic concoction is Santiago Calatrava’s award-winning Auditorio de Tenerife, which blazes across the waterfront like a giant sail pushing out towards the Atlantic. Just next door is San Juan Castle, with its sturdy walls and ramparts guarding the coast and setting off a striking contrast.

If you want to cool off, a short stroll away is the Parque Maritimo, a stylish oasis that was conjured up by seminal Canarian architect César Manrique. Saltwater pools and sunbathing decks are sculpted in his unique style. Think Gaudi with even more organic curves.

For lunch, numerous eating options await in the city centre. La Hierbita is one of my favourite restaurants – try the delicious papas arrugadas (salted island potatoes with spicy mojo sauce) or the juicy grilled prawns, washed down with crisp white wine from the island’s Orotava Valley. Alternatively, La Garriga is a great old-fashioned bar/deli that rustles up a mean bocadillo from its impressive selection of cheeses and cold meats.

Also try the revamped La Noria historic district around Calle Antonio Dominguez Alfonso. It’s home to the traditional societies that organise groups for the massive Carnival street parades in February, like Ni Fu Ni Fa, a bunch of satirical clowns. Pop in to their headquarters for a beer when they’re not practising and savour a bit of the Carnival vibe at any time of the year.

The choice now is between just enjoying Santa Cruz’s relaxed ambience or getting all cerebral at its venerable museums. Head to the Military Museum to see the cannon said to have blown off Lord Nelson’s arm; explore the island’s heritage at the Museum of Man and Nature; and browse a showcase of works by Canarian and Spanish artists at the funky new TEA (Tenerife Espacio de las Artes) modern art gallery.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife is also a green city with palm-fringed streets and plenty of parks. Everyone’s favourite is the Parque Municipal Garcia Sanabria with its shady lanes, pumping fountains, numerous benches and modern art sculptures (ignore the guidebooks though, as the famous Henry Moore piece has recently decamped to the TEA).

Breaking out of Santa Cruz, Spain’s highest mountain, the mighty Mount Teide volcano, awaits. The Teleferico cable car is also on hand to make the most of the mountain views for those not keen to take on the epic hike up its dry and steep slopes. Further south, the resorts of Costa Adeje, Los Cristianos and Playa de las Américas tempt with attractions such as Siam Park, one of Europe’s top water parks, boat trips out to watch dolphins and whales, and a waterfront boulevard that skips around the trio of resorts and links their sandy beaches.

City Nights
Santa Cruz’s nefarious nightlife is great at any time of the year, and the waterfront is an ideal place to kick back with a cold Dorada (the local beer) and a view split between mountains and the ocean. Numerous bars line Calle San Francisco, with safe bets including Anaga 21 or Tuareg, the latter spiced up by belly dancers. For a sunnier sundown spot, recline among the swaying palms at the Parque Garcia Sanabria’s eponymous café.

In recent years the hottest action has moved inland to La Noria, and the old stone streets just uphill from the Church of the Conception pulse late into the night. Laid-back Irish bar Murphy’s is a fun place to start off over a proper pint of Guinness, before pushing on to Calle Antonio Dominguez Alfonso where half a dozen bar-restaurants vie for your attention. Two of the most interesting are El Lagar de la Noria, with its Spanish classics and airy rooftop terrace, and Bulan, which blends touches of Africa and Asia into its décor, with inventive food to match.

A hip new arrival is 1.600 Y Pico, which conjures up culinary creations using local, seasonal produce and is also a good place to try one of the seriously underrated Tenerife wines. Another sprightly newcomer at the top of the street is Arcos de la Noria, which boasts a stylish lounge bar and a smart Italian restaurant, making it a favourite among food-loving locals and those in the know.

When it comes to clubs, Santa Cruz is no slouch either. Kiss Me Pub is a lively haunt of the local gay community, while the top club venue is Dreams, down by the Auditorio, with a slice of the glamour of Ibiza and some big-name DJs banging along by the waterfront. Jam Beach Club nearby is a bit more chilled and the place to be in summer as you sip cocktails by candlelight late into the balmy Canarian night.

The Tenerife Gig
If you get the chance to see a performance at the spectacular Auditorio then make sure you take it. The town plays host to regular classical concerts, and on 3 April renowned local orchestra Orquesta Sinfónica de Tenerife will be lighting up the stage with pieces by Bach and Bruckner, led by British conductor James Judd. It’s a great venue that is itself an essential part of the experience.

Avenida de la Constitucion, Tel: +34 9225 6860, www.auditoriodetenerife.com

Tenerife on the Cheap
For cheap eats head straight for the tapas bars at the Nuestra Senora de Africa market in Santa Cruz. The market is closed on Sundays, but replaced by a fun flea market instead. Also look out for the menu del dia signs in local restaurants, with three courses and a drink included — sometimes for less than €10. For a cheap day trip, you could catch the funky new tram out to the UNESCO-listed town of La Laguna for just a couple of euros return.

City Stay

Cream of the Crop
Bahia del Duque
Arguably the island’s finest hotel, this super-luxury option in Costa Adeje is unmistakably Canarian, with village-style architecture and staff dressed in traditional costumes. The resort is laid out on a hillside around a quintet of swimming pools and lush vegetation that unfurls down to an Atlantic beach. There are even separate villas with their own pools. A Michelin-star-winning chef and several restaurants mean dining in is essential, and the resort also boasts a brand new spa complex.

Doubles from €345, Including Breakfast. Tel: +34 922 746 900, www.bahia-duque.com

Not Breaking the Bank
Hotel Contemporaneo
One of the new breed of design hotels in Santa Cruz, this three-star bolt-hole is a favourite of the local and mainland business community, and is situated on the edge of Parque Garcia Sanabria. Rooms are comfortable enough, with bigger ones boasting design furniture and modern four-poster beds. But it’s the public areas that really shine, including the Macusamba bar that attracts guests and residents in equal measure for its smooth cocktails, mellow ambience and an hour’s free wi-fi.

Doubles from €80. tel: +34 902 120 329, www.hotelcontemporaneo.com

On a Budget
Mova
For budget travellers to Tenerife, the best option is staying at a pension. And while there may be some shabby ones around, Mova is a decent one. You have the choice between singles and doubles, as well as the option of having your own bathroom. All rooms are comfortable and, more importantly at this end of the market, clean. The location is good too, near the waterfront and all the attractions, with Parque Garcia Sanabria on hand nearby. There are no real facilities as such, but then at this price you cannot really complain!

Doubles with bathroom from €26. Tel: +34 922 283 261

Key Addresses

BAHIA DEL DUQUE
Avenida Bruselas
Tel: +34 922 746 900
www.bahia-duque.com

HOTEL CONTEMPORANEO
116 Rambla General Franco
Tel: +34 902 120 329
www.hotelcontemporaneo.com

MOVA
33 Calle San Martin
Tel: +34 922 283 261

AUDITORIO DE TENERIFE
Avenida de la Constitucion
Tel: +34 922 568 600
www.auditoriodetenerife.com

SAN JUAN CASTLE
Avenida de la Constitucion

PARQUE MARITIMO
Avenida de la Constitucion
Tel: +34 922 203 244

MILITARY MUSEUM
2 Calle San Isidro
Tel: +34 922 845 732

MUSEUM OF MAN AND NATURE
Calle Fuentes Moreales
Tel: +34 922 535 816

TEA
10 Avenida San Sebastian
Tel: +34 922 849 057
www.teatenerife.es

TELEFERICO
Tel: +34 922 010 445
www.telefericoteide.com

SIAM PARK
Costa Adeje
Tel: +34 902 060 000
www.siampark.net

LA HIERBITA
19 Calle Clavel
Tel: +34 922 244 617
www.lahierbita.com

LA GARRIGA
17 Calle Perez Galdos
Tel: +34 922 285 501

EL LAGAR DE LA NORIA
Calle Antonio Dominguez Alfonso
Tel: +34 922 247 815

BULAN
Calle Antonio Dominguez Alfonso
Tel: +34 922 274 116
www.bulantenerife.com

1.600 Y PICO
8 Calle Candelaria
Tel: +34 922 282 663

ARCOS DE LA NORIA
Calle Antonio Dominguez Alfonso
Tel: +34 922 270 122

NI FU NI FA
Calle Antonio Dominguez Alfonso

ANAGA 21
21 Calle San Francisco Tel: +34 922 284 020

TUAREG
11 Calle San Francisco
Tel: +34 922 299 635

PARQUE GARCIA SANABRIA
Parque Garcia Sanabria
Tel: +34 922 606 099

MURPHY’S
Plaza de la Concepcion
Tel: +34 922 284 864

KISS ME PUB
35 Calle San Francisco

DREAMS
5 Avenida de la Constitucion
Tel: +34 922 216 548
www.dreamstenerife.com

JAM BEACH CLUB
Parque Maritimo
Tel: +34 922 203 244

City Lives

Juan Carlos Armas, carnival costume creator and fashion designer, talks about his ciity

“I love fashion and I love Carnival, so how could I possibly live anywhere other than Santa Cruz de Tenerife? We are home to Europe’s biggest Carnival, and the second biggest in the world after Rio – an extravaganza in February that people live for all year.

“My family introduced me to Carnival at an early age and I fell in love with performing as young as 12, as a dancer. It was the elaborate, fairytale costumes that really got me, and I started to help out with their design. This took me to studying fashion in Madrid, but that was only so I could come back and do what I really wanted here in Santa Cruz.

“Every year, I design some of the theatrical costumes for Carnival Queen contestants. I must be doing something right, as they normally come first or second! I also have my own fashion outlet in Guimar that keeps me going when I am not creating outfits for Carnival.

“What I love about Santa Cruz is that although it is now a city of 225,000 inhabitants, it still has the heart of a village. People stop to say hello, drivers let you cross in front of them, people always have a smile for strangers – and then there are the Carnival societies who help keep the community together all year round. Santa Cruz has changed in recent years thanks to an increase in tourism and immigration. I think this has made it a better place – more cosmopolitan – and has brought new life and colour to the spice we already have.

“The quality of life here is very high, which I think people realise straight away. I advise first-timers just to stroll through the streets taking in the relaxed pace before visiting the Auditorio, a truly inspired building. But also take time to sit in lovely little squares like Plaza Weyler.

“Our future looks as bright as a typically sunny Santa Cruz morning. The new tram to the old capital of La Laguna has helped bring us closer to that UNESCO World Heritage town and I think we will become closer and closer until we are one city. That is fine for me, as we are an open city already and everyone is welcome – especially at my favourite time of the year, Carnival time!”

5 Plaza San Pedro, Guimar, Tel: +34 922 524 944, www.juancarlosarmas.es

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