The post Valencia Like A Local appeared first on Footloose.
It’s a city that loves to party till dawn, invented paella and has some amazing beaches in its backyard – we show you how to eat, drink and sleep in like a local!
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A CITY WITH A SENSE OF PRIDE
Why Valencia? If you had asked me this before I moved here a few years ago, my answer would have been simple: “It’s not as big as Madrid or as busy as Barcelona.” My reasoning, like my packing, was even simpler: both would have featured way too much of the hustle and bustle I was escaping in the first place – and Valencia’s three nearest beaches are all massive.
OK, slightly unfair to pick Valencia almost by default (a nd beach stats) but I come from a cold country, so I don’t feel too ashamed. It’s just the sun making me red! And though it’s taken more than a few sleepless nights, I’ve finally realised what really sets this city apart from the rest: pride.
Pride is a tough one to measure, but if you could measure it in time – such as the amount of time anyone could realistically dedicate to eating and drinking, fiery traditionalism and audacious town planning – the Valencians would probably have more than most. And, believe me, it’s understanding this pride that unlocks the best that the city has to offer.
So take a leaf out of their free-time book: take a walk along the beach, book a table, take a siesta, take a walk along the river, book another table, stay up later than you could ever possibly imagine, then take the morning off. And repeat.
Although Spain’s third-largest city, located halfway along the country’s Mediterranean coast, Valencia has always maintained a certain individuality. The city was founded by Romans, ruled by Moors and Visigoths, and became its own kingdom in 1237. It was also an influential centre for commerce, the arts and literary culture during Spain’s 15th- and 16th-century golden age, making it internationally powerful, and making its present ranking seem like a cruel understatement.
While the glory days may be over, the people have managed to preserve their own language, Valencià, one of the world’s most explosive spring festivals, Las Fallas, and, thanks to some inspired irrigation and cultivation techniques introduced by the Romans and the Moors, time-honoured rural and culinary
ON THE STREET
FROM FINE ARTS TO FINE PARKS
Like most city centre train stations, Estación del Norte is a good place to get your bearings, but that’s not all. Adorned with elaborate mosaics on the inside and art nouveau flourishes, flags and oranges on the outside, the building is one of the few transport hubs in the world where you wouldn’t mind being delayed for an hour or so.
From here, take a short walk north to Plaza del Ayuntamiento. This marble-paved square is filled with gunpowder and rockets during the Las Fallas celebrations every March (see box, right), but the rest of the year is a reasonably serene suntrap, surrounded by palm trees, flower stalls, the stunning town hall and iconic post building El Palacio de Comunicaciones.
A few streets west you’ll find Parque de la Cultura, an unassuming little square scattered with Roman ruins, and home to modern museum MuVIM (www.muvim.es 1 ). Here you can see the cream of Valencian illustration, photography and graphic design, with a varied roster of internationally sourced exhibitions. Another space for contemporary art lovers has to be IVAM (www.ivam.es 2 ). Perched on the edge of Barrio del Carmen and overlooking the Turia riverbed, this huge space houses a number of large-scale works and one of the city’s five Michelin-star restaurants.
More ephemeral creativity is never too far away – just take a walk through the winding back streets of the old town and you’ll find a new generation of artists leaving their mark.
Julieta, ESCIF and Nero are a few that stand out, adding colour, humour and social comment to walls that were in dire need of attention or the wrecking ball. See their modern-day masterpieces on C/ Baja and C/ Alta in Carmen; C/ de Maldonado in Velluters; and C/ Conde de Montornes near the more classically minded fine art gallery the Bancaja Foundation (www.bancaja.es 3 ) before they disappear. Leave the shady depths of Barrio del Carmen, and come up for air in the Plaza de la Virgen. Check out the hybrid Romanesque, French gothic, baroque and neoclassical architecture of the city’s spectacular cathedral, then take a short cut up to the heavens via its Micalet tower. Atop one of the ancient symbols of the city, for a few euros you can savour an unparalleled panoramic view across higgledy-piggledy rooftops, blue-domed churches and the City of Arts and Sciences all the way to the sea.
For a more animated slice of the action, check out the Bioparc (www.bioparcvalencia.es 4 ) at the other end of the Turia riverbed. This animal-centric “immersion zoo” is a meticulous recreation of African and Madagascan landscapes. The almost complete absence of bars and cages allows endangered animals to behave and mix as they would in the wild.
And for a chance to see humans of all ages going wild, head to the ever-atmospheric Mestalla (www.valenciacf.com 5 ) football stadium before it relocates.
LAS FALLAS
A love of food and fiestas forms an integral part of Valencians’ social lives and cultural richness. And one of the most dramatic manifestations of this is Las Fallas. Begun back in the 15th century by carpenters burning off-cuts to herald the arrival of spring, the event gradually evolved into the cathartic orgy of satirical statue burning, firecracker throwing and paella gorging it is today. While the year-round build up to the event – including fundraising paella parties – is not to every Valencian’s taste, you’d struggle to find one who’d exchange any of it for all the riches in the world.
The fascinating Fallero Museum (www.fallas.com 6 ) opposite the city’s Reina Sofia opera house, and the Rice Museum (www.museoarrozvalencia.es 7 ) in the antique fishing district Cabanal are two places to get up to speed on Las Fallas. Alternatively, try to get yourself invited to a traditional “paella by the beach” one sunny Sunday and fire off a few questions to your hosts.
THE BEST BEDS AROUND TOWN
Relative to the size of the city, the choice of hotels in Valencia isn’t huge. But what you can find on every level, from funky hostels to five-star luxury hotels, is a well-maintained launch/crash pad to suit your needs. Just decide whether you want to be close to the beach or the city centre – or maybe halfway between both? Then check your bank balance. Here’s a selection of hotels I’ve found on my travels to give you an idea of what to expect in all areas.
Modelled around a spa built in 1898, the Hotel Balneario Las Arenas (www.hotel-lasarenas.com, doubles from €130 a night 8 ) was converted into a 253-room five-star hotel and spa in 2006, and has been turning heads on Las Arenas beach ever since. The guest-eye view isn’t bad either. The majority of the rooms overlook lush gardens, pool bars, fountains, soft sands and finally the Mediterranean Sea. This place will definitely give the majority of your holiday snaps the edge.
Though lacking the beach views, Room Mate Marina (www.room-matehotels.com, doubles from €90 9 ) makes up for any lost points with its rooftop pool, sauna and gym, as well as a stylish glass-fronted bar and a handy positioning off Avenida del Puerto. This arterial road links the centre of town with the revamped America’s Cup port area and old-school fishing district Poblats Maritim, meaning you’ll never be more than a short taxi ride from the centre, or walking distance from the beaches of Malvarosa, Las Arenas or Patacona. It’s also run by one of the funkiest hotel chains in Spain, so you can expect down-to-earth service, and facilities that are out of this world.
Moving into town, the zen-like ode to cream that is the Hospes Palau de la Mar (www.hospes.com, doubles from €95 10 ) occupies a palatial 19th-century townhouse, and is discreetly located on the edge of Valencia’s well-heeled L’Eixample district. The Westin Valencia (www.starwoodhotels.com, doubles from €225 11 ), on the other hand, is gloriously indiscreet near the tree-lined Paseo Alameda. Walking distance from the Turia riverbed, the centre of town and the hallowed turf of the Mestalla football stadium, this grand hotel greets you with a flamboyant modernist facade and treats you with luxury spa facilities and an enormous interior patio.
With an unbeatable location on one of the city’s most emblematic thoroughfares, C/ de La Paz, Vincci Palace (www.vinccipalacehotel.com, doubles from €79 12 ) should be the first choice for any city-loving bon viveur. Metres from bustling Plaza de la Virgen and minutes from the belle époque beauty of L’Eixample, the hotel boasts a super sultry design aesthetic that drifts seductively from the foyer into every one of the 76 boudoir-inspired rooms.
CUT-PRICE KIPS
Do you remember a time when youth hostels were covered in crazy wallpaper and the halls echoed with fruitcakes from all over the world? Or when a bed cost you the same price as a posh steak at a nice restaurant? Well, thank your lucky stars that things haven’t changed one bit in Valencia!
It’s absolutely great news for the visiting hedonists among you because – along with sumptuous paella and juicy oranges – the city has a lesser-known symbol that also reflects their fondness for late nights, the bat. So if, like the night-loving locals, you would prefer to spend your sleeping hours partying and your hard-earned cash on something other than a posh room and fluffy towels, compare the good-time stats at the Purple Nest Hostel near C/ de La Paz (www.nesthostelsvalencia.com 13 ), Hôme in Barrio del Carmen (www.likeathome.net 14 ), and Russafa Youth Hostel in Ruzafa (www.russafayouthhostel.com 15 ) and let the good times roll!
ON THE TABLE
EATING YOUR WAY ROUND VALENCIA
Spain’s national pastime is without doubt eating. They even have a verb for eating tapas: tapear. More importantly, there are five designated eating times throughout the day: desayuno, almuerzo, comida, merienda and cena, to which Valencians are ardent followers. So before you find yourself out of sync and nursing a rumbling belly, here are a few pointers.
If you missed breakfast (desayuno) at the hotel, skip to almuerzo – a late-morning graze with a small sandwich and a coffee. Get a decent takeaway bocadillo at Pan Pan (C/ de La Paz) and coffee from Terraza Sugar Café next door, then head to the benches at the centre of Plaza de la Reina or to Parque Parterre, with its famous statue of Valencia’s reconquistador King James I.
Valencians invented paella, and you’ll find it on nearly every menu del dia in equally good and bad proportions. So, a little after 2pm, head to the dedicated paella eateries by the beach. The sheer number of places keeps quality and prices where they should be, although you might pay more for a sea view. Over in L’Eixample district, award-winning Casa Roberto (www.casaroberto.es 16 ) has been serving arguably the best paella in the centre of town since the 1960s.
If you prefer your lunch alfresco, head to La Santa (www.lasantavalencia.com 17 ), or pull up a chair at one of the many other smart tapas joints all along leafy C/ Conde Altea. The surrounding streets feature a number of top lunch options, but the best come out at cena. Newcomer Thaï Gardens (www.thaigardensgroup.com 18 ) certainly stands out among the refined crowd. A split-level dining area, with exotic wood sculptures and fountains makes for a truly escapist late-night experience.
Getting back with the tapas programme, Las Cuevas ( 19 ) behind Plaza de la Virgen is one of the most atmospheric tapas joints in town. The menu heaves with more little wonders than you could count, while the cellar-like interior heaves most nights after 9pm. Going a bit more upmarket, yet in keeping with the tapas ethos, Tahine (www.grupo-jbl.com 20 ) in Barrio del Carmen turns fine dining funky with its elaborately crafted mini-dishes that are crying out to be shared. Chef/owner Edward Phillips Blanco’s newly inaugurated Pinxto Bar, serving up the Basque-style tapas (Thursday–Saturday), is fast becoming legendary, too.
An already-established legend among the numerous bars and restaurants of Ruzafa, sandwich bar El Rus ( 21 ) has a dizzying array of bocadillos to suit almost every fancy and budget. Don’t be surprised if you have to queue for a table after 10pm.
THAT’S THE NUTS!
Let’s not forget merienda. Having a sweeter tooth than most, this is my favourite mini-meal of the day. Taken between lunch and dinner, it’s the perfect time to try horchata. But what is this you ask? Let me explain. Brought to Spain by the Moors in the Middle Ages, the tiger nut flourished in the fertile Valencian soil thanks to an exceptionally mild climate and generations of skilled cultivation. It is still grown in nearby Alboraya today. Once harvested, the small brown nut is washed, dried (for up to three months) and “juiced” – a vigorous process that entails crushing, macerating and squeezing it until all the “milk” is released. Even after such a hearty battering, and the addition of water and sugar at the final stage, the distinct flavour and vitamin C and E content remains. Try the drink with some fartons (thin pastries) at the famous Santa Catalina (www.horchateriasantacatalina.com 22 ), or at Orchata Daniel (www.horchateria-daniel.es) a metro ride away in Alboraya.
AT THE BAR
PARTY TILL DAWN LIKE THE LOCALS
After a particularly brutal winter (the average daily temperature hovering around 10°C), Valencians are now enjoying the unstoppable growth of the terrazas. Spreading out across the pavements under the warm sunshine, alfresco tables and chairs extend the city’s numerous bars, cafés and restaurants. Balmier nights keep people out on the streets until late – and the clubs empty until much, much later.
The terrazas opposite the cathedral on Plaza de la Virgen are irresistible for most, but you can also head to other, less expensive, places around Barrio del Carmen. Tasca El Botijo (www.tascaelbotijo.com 23 ) is like catnip to the cool cats of this bohemian district and serves pretty good tapas to accompany a caña (small beer). But if sightseeing is key to the experience, sit outside La Maruja (www.lamaruja.es 24 ) under the shade of the colossal city gates, Torres de Serranos. Alternatively, relax at the lakeside café in Parque de Cabecera weighing up the rental of a swan-shaped pedalo or a trip to the Bioparc.
By the beach, you’re spoilt for choice all the way along Paseo Maritimo, including a minimalist glass and steel-girder bar on the port wall. Grab a seat here and from one side you’ll have an uninterrupted view across Valencia’s three beaches, and from the other you’ll overlook the brand new Formula One racetrack.
Back in town, the roads emanating from Plaza Canovas – especially C/ Conde Altea – are awash with shady terrazas that are as busy during the day as they are at night. Although neon-lit Barcode (www.thebarcodebar.com 25 ) definitely looks better after dark, serving a delectable range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. The same goes for Inbocca across the street, where stylish, high tables, a long bar and great hamburgers are the order of the evening.
A younger, more casually dressed crowd can be found most nights around Ruzafa. Specifically, where C/ Literato Azorin meets C/ Sueca. Bars Tula, El Ganxto and Backstage Russafa are a few standout (and sit out) favourites, while the likes of Ubik and Slaughterhouse (www.slaughterhouse.es 26 ) are blazing a trail for cosy culture cafés where you can buy a book, see an exhibition or catch a live band with your drink. An even more laid-back vibe can be found at newcomer El Desvan del Café ( 27 ), which has masses of eccentric appeal in a pocket-sized space. Finally, the slick bar at the front of restaurant La Lluerna (www.lalluerna.com 28 ) is probably the best option for a superior selection of international wines.
If you are just sticking to Barrio del Carmen, the good times usually ripple out from Plaza Tetuan. Begin a night on the cobbles at La Infanta ( 29 ), a legendary bar with a terraza overlooking the square, and an interior covered with classic movie memorabilia.
NO BED, PLEASE
Even in a country internationally renowned for burning the candle at both ends, Valencians are an exception. This of course has something to do with an optimum climate that makes sitting out on a terraza until midnight more appealing than sitting in an air-conditioned bar. And a lot to do with the fact Valencians (those driving cars aside) don’t rush for anything.
So don’t be surprised if you’re alone in a bar at 10pm or a club stays deserted until 2am. Just pace yourself a little and you’ll make it to 7am with the best of them. A trio of late-night options include Barrio del Carmen’s after-hours epicentre Radio City (www.radiocityvalencia.com 30 ), playing banging pop electronica and classic house; Excuse Me? (www.myspace.com/excusemeclub 31 ) in Ruzafa, where DJs spin a more refined selection of pop and house downstairs and vintage vinyl upstairs; and the unashamedly pop open-air club L’Umbracle (www.umbracleterraza.com 32 ) at the iconic City of Arts and Sciences building.
IN THE BAG
SHOP FOR SOME SPANISH STYLE
It’s worth remembering that the commercial side of the city grinds to a complete halt on Sundays. But for the rest of the time, an eclectic mix of achingly hip and reassuringly ancient furniture, clothes and curiosity stores gives the city plenty of shopping appeal. Things to look out for include decorative tiles and ceramics, regional wines, honey and nut-laden turrónes, as well as the tools and ingredients for making a thwacking great paella.
For more general needs, and Spanish favourites like Camper, Zara and El Corte Inglés, head to bustling C/ Colon. Things get high-end a few streets away near the Mercado Colon. From here you’ll find designer gear, jewellery and furniture boutiques concentrated along C/ Cirilo Amoros and C/ Hernan Cortes. However, confectioner La Rosa de Jericó (www.larosadejerico.es 33 ) on the latter, and limited-edition jewellery store Uno de 50 (www.unode50.com 34 ) on C/ Jorge Juan, offer a selection of more accessible gifts.
Moving towards Ruzafa you’ll find even more down-to-earth establishments like Tu La Llevas (www.tulallevas.es 35 ), stocking casual womenswear and accessories. There’s even a decent selection of menswear for bored boyfriends. A few streets away Nanufacture (www.nanufacture.com 36 ) caters for the coolest kids and babies in Valencia.
Over the adjacent palm-lined Avenida del Reino Valencia you can find your very own boots of Spanish leather at Sendra (www.sendravalencia.com 37 ). Pair them up with a Gibson Les Paul from rocking electric guitar showroom Tex-Mex Guitars next door. Take a further wander around Ruzafa and see what other treats you can find among the antiques showrooms, North African mini-markets, organic food stores and bookshops. Head to delicatessen Lázaro Fernández (www.charcuterialazarofernandez.com 38 ) to stock up on sweet and savoury regional classics.
In Barrio del Carmen, much of the shopping action plays out around the modernismo magnificence of the Mercado Central. Stride around purposefully with a picnic list or stay well out of the way – these people are hungry!
You can try to find a paella (yes, the pan is called that, too!) that fits into your luggage at the Guillermo Pedrós stall to the side of the market. Then squeeze past World Heritage Site La Lonja de la Seda (silk exchange) to explore the tight backstreets. Café/shop Booktique (www.booktiquelibreria.com 39 ) is a must for art-and-design book fans.
Lastly, there’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it ceramics shop called Yuste down a side street off Plaza de la Reina stocked to the rafters with hand-painted bowls, jugs and authentic Valencian tiles. Find Boccata on the square’s left-hand side, walk towards the Micalet tower and find a little alley leading to the shop on your left. Then get ready to haggle.
MARKET FORCES
Local markets are still very much at the centre of Valencian society, and given the city’s proximity to the sea and some of the most fertile land in Europe, they are filled with a colourful abundance of quality fresh fish, fruit and vegetables that the majority of us only see when we’re on holiday.
Brushing up on vocabulary and bag filling at the Mercado Central is a good way to get a taste of the action, but any good restaurant nearby should be putting the same ingredients on your plate for less hassle! And speaking of less hassle, Mercado Colon (www.mercadocolon.com) in L’Eixample has been converted into a centre for smart bars and eateries.
Built around 1916, the market’s elegant wrought iron structure, stained-glass windows and tiling more than compensate for the lack of stalls. For another conversion more suited to the fashionistas among us, Mercado de Campanar (www.mercadodecampanar.com) is a multi-tiered hub for designer brands, stylish lounge bars and cafés.
1 / KIDS’ VALENCIA SHIRT
In unfortunate accordance with its third-city status, Valencia’s football team appears destined to stay in third place forever. Keep their morale high by adding a life-long supporter to the ranks with this child’s T-shirt from the Valencia FC Shop (25 Calle del Pintor Sorolla). €16, WWW.VCFSHOP.COM
2 / TURRÓN
Get your sweet fix at Turrones Ramos (11 Calle de la Sombrereria), a shop belonging to a factory in Jijona, the small town near Alicante famous for its turrón production. The delectable turrónes are a honey and almond delicacy traditionally given at Christmas. €12
3 / TEXTURA: VALENCIA STREET ART
Photographer Luz A Martín has roamed her city’s backstreets finding and framing its best pieces of street art. Get this unconventional yet fascinating introduction to the artistic heritage of the city at Octubre bookshop (12 C/Sant Ferran). €30, WWW.OCTUBRE.CAT
4 / HANDMADE FAN
The first reference to fans in Spain was made in 1429. The place? Valencia. We bought this one at Abanicos Carbonell (21 C/ Castellon), an unassuming little shop run by the Carbonell family since 1860. It sells an astonishing array of classic and bespoke abanicos. €40, WWW.ABANICOSCARBONELL.COM
5 / COFFY ALLSTARS
This exuberant meeting of the city’s vastly underrated hip hop, reggae and R&B crews was released on Valencia’s Coffy Records label in 2005. Drop by their HQ, Zityest, in Barrio del Carmen (4 C/ Cocinas), which doubles as a skate and streetwear shop. €7, WWW.MYSPACE.COM/ZITYESTSHOP
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